Puglia

For many years, Puglia captured my imagination from afar. Having traveled through most provinces of Italy, the South remained elusive and exotic. I pictured grimy towns, unintelligible accents, and salty locals with a hint of danger around every corner—perhaps colored by Northern stereotypes and regional rivalries.

Then I visited in 2021 and returned for a deeper exploration in 2024. What I found was far from the gritty stereotypes—at least in Puglia. (Calabria is another matter entirely.) Instead, I discovered that wealthy Northerners had transformed parts of Puglia into their stylish playground, bringing a sophisticated shine to the region.

Puglia bursts with stunning coastlines, hearty seafood cuisine, incredibly welcoming people, and diverse attractions to satisfy discerning travelers. However, like much of Italy, the summer months can become overwhelming with tourists. Yet the landscape feels dramatically different here: the lush hills of Tuscany and Umbria give way to flatter, scrub-covered plains and rocky shores.

My advice? Reset your expectations. Slow down, savor local rhythms, and embrace the daily pause when towns quiet dramatically after lunch. If napping isn’t your style, use this lull to wander deserted streets, beaches, and squares, soaking in the tranquility before life returns in the evening. Dive deep into local dishes and roadside food shops—fresh burrata here can taste as if it were literally pulled from the cow that morning.

Here are some towns not to miss:

Bari - A vibrant urban must-visit. Join a leisurely free walking tour to absorb local life. Stroll down the famous Orecchiette Street, where women shape pasta by hand outside their homes. Absolutely do not skip Bari’s iconic spaghetti all’assassina—crispy, spicy perfection.

See: Free Walking Tour |
Eat: Spaghetti al Assassina - Al Sorso Preferito (the original) or Urban L’Assassineria Urbana (a more modern take) | Orecchiette Cimi de Rapa - La Cantina Dello Zio | Focaccia Barese - Panificio Fiore |

Altamura - If food is your religion, Altamura is your pilgrimage. Nationally renowned for Italy’s best bread, its crusty loaves pair brilliantly with local cheeses from charming, family-run shops. Ideal as a delicious snack stop en route to Matera.

Eat: Bakery - Antico Forno Santa Cateria dal 1306 | Cheese Shop - Caseficio Stella Dicecca

Polignano a Mare - Easily my favorite East Coast town. Dramatic cliffs, turquoise waters, and whitewashed buildings create postcard-perfect views. Paddle board around hidden caves and cliffs for a unique perspective. Skip the cave restaurant and opt instead for crispy panzerotti just across the bridge. Wander charming streets after dusk.

Eat: Panzerotti - La Rotellina

Monopoli - Slightly grittier than Polignano but authentically engaging, Monopoli blends local restaurants, inviting beaches, and vibrant nightlife. It’s ideal for travelers craving genuine, bustling city life.

Lecce - Known as the “Florence of the South,” Lecce enchants with baroque architecture, delightful restaurants, quaint boutiques, and vibrant museums. Stay a couple of days and take a local cooking class to fully immerse yourself in the warmth of this beautiful city. Don’t miss the Museo Faggiano. It’s an amazing family story and the most charming little spot. I don’t normally recommend hotels, but I love Pollicastro Boutique Hotel (and their breakfast is sublime).

See: Jewish Museum | Museo Faggiano | Walk the streets
Eat: Breakfast - Pollicastro Boutique Hotel | Osteria degli Spiriti (Upscale but not $$$$)

Ostuni - Quintessentially charming, Ostuni’s glowing white buildings stand out among olive groves. Home to my absolute favorite gelato spot worldwide, Cremeria alla Scala—unmissable.

Eat: Gelato - Cremeria alla Scala

Alberobello - Though the iconic trulli houses are genuinely lovely, Alberobello often feels overrun by tourists. Enjoy a quick, scenic stroll here, then move on—you’ll see trulli scattered throughout the region anyway.

Nardo - Quaint, tranquil, and beautifully preserved, Nardo offers a peaceful afternoon of wandering and a relaxing dinner. It’s charming for a brief visit but can feel limited for an extended stay.

Eat: La Cattredale

Gallipoli - My personal gem of Salento, Gallipoli boasts an impressive castle, a picturesque old town, pristine beaches, and excellent seafood dining. Spend at least a day here, savoring the sunset, or better yet, base yourself here for a few days of exploring nearby coastal spots.

Santa Maria di Leuca - Ideal as a day trip from Gallipoli. The spectacular coastal drive alone—with dramatic cliffs, scenic bridges, and hidden beaches—is worth it. Leuca was charmingly empty during my November visit, adding to its appeal.

Otranto - A wonderful coastal loop addition with stunning beaches and historical charm thanks to its medieval streets and castle. While Gallipoli remains my favorite, Otranto is still worth a delightful day’s exploration.

Sidetrip: Matera - Unlike anywhere else in Europe, Matera mesmerizes with ancient cave dwellings carved from cliffs. Wander its UNESCO-protected streets, indulge in its sophisticated restaurants, and soak in the unique atmosphere. A must if you’re exploring deeply in Puglia or heading towards Calabria or Sicily.